CHONBURI

The first major town to the east of Bangkok is Chonburi, about an hour by bus from Ekamai. Nearly every bus from Ekamai stops in Chonburi to pick up extra passengers.

The biggest event of the year in Chonburi is the annual Water Buffalo Market and Races. Farmers and breeders from all over Thailand come to the city for the biggest water buffalo (khwai) market of the year. The market lasts for a few days, with direct sales and auctions and lots of haggling over the great lumbering creatures that are the traditional beast of burden of Thai agriculture. At the end of the market is the most exciting happening in Chonburi all year.

THE RACE

Nimble, wiry rural chaps ride their prize beasts bareback in a frenzied ( though not particularly fast ) race over a rough track. Much betting goes on at the sidelines, and the winner is a champion for a day. The Khwai races take place in October.